Before restaurants were really called “restaurants”, there were still places to have a sit-down and some refreshments. During the early-to-mid 19th century, a type of establishment known as a “Recess” was prevalent throughout Rochester. Son of the old tavern, father of the saloon, the recess was a cozy nook of decorative hardwood and brass, easily accessed by stair from the dusty streets outside. Most often, these recesses were in the basement level of prominent downtown buildings, the high-profile hotels or extravagant business blocks. Within the recess, one could get a hot lunch or cold oysters; carved slices of roast chicken, beef, and game; a selection of beers, wines, and ciders, both domestic and imported; wholesome stews, gruels, and meals; an assortment of various liquors; cigars, pipes and chewing tobacco; sometimes even cordials, candies, chocolates.

This was a particularly tricky entry to flesh out as the sources are so old and sporadic; I was unable to identify some of the people with any certainty, nor connect them with their grave markers as I am wont to do. A couple of recesses had uncertain locations, for which I had to employ a modicum of educated guesswork. I like to think I did a fairly good job connecting the dots, especially given I had to locate the dots and figure out their order in the first place.

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City Recess

Quite probably the most well-known of Rochester recesses, this was in the basement of the Burns Block, which would become the Elwood Block in 1875 and eventually be replaced by the Elwood Memorial Building.

The earliest proprietor of the City Recess I was able to determine was William Hawkins, who ran the eatery around 1837-1838. Hawkins subscribed as proprietor of the City Recess to an advertisement for Hathaway’s Patent Hot Air Cooking Stove in 1838:

The below 1873 article about Chester A. Kellogg mentions that he became proprietor of the City Recess around 1838:

According to the below article from the Daily Democrat, it was more like 1839-1840 that Chester Kellogg, in partnership with Thomas Smith, took on the City Recess. They were proprietors also of the Eagle Recess, presumably in the basement of the Eagle Hotel, northwest corner of State and Buffalo where the Powers Building now stands.

Kellogg took proprietorship of the City Recess around 1839-40, then some time later opened a dining establishment called The Cornucopia in the basement of the Reynolds Arcade. He would later become proprietor of the Arcade House “ice cream saloon”, also in the Reynolds Arcade.

The Reverend John Quincy Adams of Waterloo possessed a copy of the Monroe Democrat published Tuesday, October 10th, 1843. Within, there is an advertisement for the “City Recess, and General Eating House” conducted by Allen C. Merritt.

This is a bit odd, since I thought Kellogg & Smith purchased the recess from Merritt in 1839-1840, but perhaps it returned to Merritt’s hands when Kellogg moved on to open the Cornucopia.

In the below 1845 ad, the City Recess is under the proprietorship of Hurlburt & Carrington, who have enlarged and improved the premises:

In the following advertisement, a sad-looking man with a rotund belly and some amount of junk in his trunk gazes almost regretfully at the text of the ad; perhaps he indulged his appetite too wantonly at the CITY RECESS.

As the above is somewhat low-quality, I’ve transcribed it below:

CITY RECESS. THIS long established and popular RE-CESS, has recently passed into the hands of the subscribers, and been greatly enlarged and improved. The rooms are spacious and well fitted up, and no effort will be spared to supply the wants of those visiting them, so far as hunger and thirst are concerned. The tables will ever be found groaning under every delicacy and luxury our own and the eastern markets afford; and of these, the woods, the fields, and the water shall contribute their due proportion. Of the substantials of life, a goodly supply will always be kept on hand, and those of the very choicest kinds.
The subscribers pledge themselves to the use of every proper effort to sustain the reputation the City Recess has so long enjoyed.
HURLBURT & CARRINGTON.

If I’ve identified the proprietors properly, Carrington is John Carrington, and “Hurlburt” was meant to be “Hulbert”, as in Oscar Hulbert who was listed in the 1845 Directory as proprietor of the “City Oyster Saloon”. He and his twin brother Osmer Hulbert are big on the restaurant scene at this time; we’ll get into them soon.

In the 1847 Directory, the City Recess is listed as being kept by John Carrington & Co. This is presumably the Carrington of “Hurlburt & Carrington”.

If I have identified John Carrington correctly, he died in December of 1852.

The next proprietor of the City Recess would be Myron Walker.

I have transcribed the above ad below for legibility:

THE CITY RECESS.— The proprietor of this long established and excellent refectory, situation near the corner of Buffalo and State-sts., in BURNS’ block, has renovated and re-fitted it throughout. It is now more then ever inviting to the hungry, and the positive attractions of its well and judiciously supplied larder are well known and appreciated by all classes of epicures. Mr. WALKER is a purveyor whose reputation may be envied.

Rochester Daily Democrat
Wednesday, November 28, 1849

The information given for Myron Walker on findagrave.com states “Myron was proud to be a Saloon Proprietor providing fresh fish, oysters, lobsters, and fresh fruits in their season to his customers. The Saloon was called the “City Recess” and was located on Buffalo St.” Walker died in 1853.

The obituary of Osmer “Oc” Hulbert states that Hulbert was proprietor of the City Recess from 1852 to 1865:

Previous to the City Recess, Hulbert had an eatery on Exchange Street and then, in 1840, he and his twin brother Oscar Hulbert opened the “City Oyster Saloon” at No. 88 Buffalo Street.

The brothers Hulbert would be proprietors of the Pantheon Recess in 1847.

Osmer Hulbert had the commission to provision food for the enlisted soldiers from Monroe County during their drilling process at Camp Genesee and Camp Hillhouse during the Civil War between the years of 1861 and 1865.

In 1865, Hulbert left City Recess to accept proprietorship over the Oyster Bay Hotel saloon, corner Front and Main Streets. While Hulbert died in 1886, the Oyster Bay would carry on in that location until approximately 1907.

It’s a bit easier to see in this colorized postcard:

Below, Osmer Hulbert’s obituary:

In 1865, the proprietorship of the City Recess passed on to Erastus M. Denio. The massive flood of 1865 apparently did an extensive level of damage to the recess and was closed for renovations.

The following year, on Saturday September 29th, 1886, the City Recess was re-opened as “Oyster Ocean”, a popular oyster house run by “Oyster King of Western New York” Samuel C. Worden in partnership with Erastus M. Denio.

Worden would leave Denio in charge of the Oyster Ocean around 1874 while he went to Buffalo in pursuit of business there; however, Denio’s failing health compelled him to retire in 1875.

In 1879, the Elwood Block was torn down and the Elwood Memorial Building constructed on the site, which itself lasted until 1967.

As I said previously, the City Recess was definitely the most well-known of the city’s recesses. There’s far more surviving information about it than any other recesses of the time, at least. However, I was able to find bits and pieces, which I’ve assembled in their respective sections.

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Pantheon Recess

Pantheon Recess was the recess run by the aforementioned Hulbert brothers, Osmer and Oscar, in the basement of the first Osburn House at the corner of East Main and North St. Paul Streets between the years 1845 and 1852.

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Knickerbocker Recess

On the corner of State and Market Streets was the Knickerbocker Recess, proprietor Ellis G. Butler.

Around 1851, the Knickerbocker Recess was purchased by D. Hudson Davis.

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Diamond Recess

The proprietor of the Diamond Recess was Amos Stillman West.

The address given above, “47 Main”, seems to share a building with Frederick Starr’s cabinet and piano factory, on Main Street corner Liberty Street, a group of buildings known as the “Orphean Buildings” after the ancient mythic musician Orpheus.

According to Findagrave.com, the below is a portrait of Amos S. West, former Diamond Recess proprietor. I cannot verify this since whomever added it helpfully failed to cite their source:

Amos S. West was only proprietor of the Diamond Recess for a few years, noted in the 1847 and 1849 directories; West would eventually find work with the Roberts Petroleum Torpedo Company. This distant precursor to hydraulic fracking was involved in firing controlled explosives–gunpowder, at first, later nitroglycerine–into oil wells to increase their productivity. It is this profession that would cost West his life, when an explosive torpedo went off prematurely killing him instantly.

As of 1849, the Diamond Recess–or Diamond Saloon–has come under the proprietorship of James Hart, who was previously engaged with the Colonnade Recess in 1847 [as we’ll look into later in this post.]

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Caledonia Recess

The location of the Caledonia Recess, proprietor John Imray, was a bit difficult to pin down with 100% certainty.

By looking at several directories, we’re able to ascertain that the Caledonia Recess was on the canal towpath, near the exchange street bridge over the canal. There are a couple buildings that seem to fit the bill, but the most prominent of these is the Rochester House hotel.

Built in 1827, the Rochester House was positioned to receive patrons from the canal, opened two years prior. After a fire in 1853, it would be demolished. It is possible that this hotel, adjacent to both towpath and Exchange Street canal bridge, was the home of Caledonia Recess; however, it’s a little bit odd that it’s not named explicitly as being in the Rochester House. So, I could be wrong; it could be one of the other buildings nearby.

Caledonia Recess proprietor John Imray lived at No. 2 Pine Alley, which was the alley that ran–at this time–from the canal west of the Rochester House to Spring Street.

However, there is another thing that makes me doubt the location of the Caledonia House within the Rochester House hotel: the existence of the Rochester Recess, which, quite reasonably, looks to have itself been in the Rochester House.

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Rochester Recess

The proprietors of the Rochester Recess were William Cochrane and Osborn Weed. This recess was supposed to have been the favored drinking place of Sam Patch of leaping-to-his-death fame, who was good friends with William Cochrane’s brother, Joseph.

“Bristol-Beer” is most likely beer from one of the myriad brewers in Bristol, UK.

Initially I thought “Needham’s Superior bottled cider” to have been cider from the cider press of Joseph S. Needham of Peabody, Massachussetts. However, Needham would have been ten years old as of the above ad’s publication so, uh, I doubt he was putting out a prized bottled cider brand. Perhaps a relation, or someone else entirely.

“Fresh Congress water” refers to mineral water sourced from the Congress Spring in Saratoga Springs, New York.

Wholesome hot dishes are listed above, available at the Rochester Recess during the nights of the cold months: mush, samp and milk, and various soups.

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Theatre Recess

Confounding the Rochester House situation yet further, the basement of the establishment was apparently also home to the Theatre Recess, of which Susan Gardner Johnson was proprietor. This listing at least has the advantage of the location being in plain writing, instead of inferred from the text by myself, but it makes me doubt my previous two assignments quite a lot. Three recesses in one building? Absurd.

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Alhambra Recess

The Alhambra Recess was on Front Street, proprietor Jonathan B. Damon.

The Alhambra was named after an Islamic-era palace and fortress in Granada, Spain.

Oddly, the Alhambra is listed as being on the corner of Mill and Market Streets and on Front Street, in the same 1847 directory. I guess it’s not wholly incorrect, as no other building would be between it and Mill Street, so technically the Alhambra was on the corner of Mill, Market, and Front Streets.

The below article from June of 1846 addresses the Alhambra as “corner of Market and Front-sts., opposite Centre Market.”

I’m going to conjecture that, of the two corners, the Alhambra inhabited the northern one as the other corner was home to the Market Cottage Hotel, which I’ve written about previously.

There is an Alhambra Dining Saloon in 1859’s directory at the corner of Buffalo [West Main] and Exchange Streets, a building known as the Masonic Hall Block, but it’s difficult to tell if this is indeed the same eating establishment as the Alhambra Recess, moved to another location, or a different entity entirely.

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Colonnade Recess

The proprietors of the Colonnade recess were James McNulty and James Hart. In the 1845 directory, McNulty is listed as a “Clerk, Pro Bono Publico”. I assumed at first that meant he was a lawyer, but at this time there seems to have also been a saloon called “Pro Bono Publico” under the proprietorship of Osmer S. Hulbert, so it stands to reason he could have been a clerk employed at that location.

This was one about which it was difficult to find information. I could find nothing regarding James McNulty & James Hart save their association in the Colonnade, and the tightest address I could locate was below, “cor. Main and Water”.

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Eagle Recess

In the basement of the venerable old Eagle Hotel on the northwest corner of State and Buffalo Streets, there was another popular recess, the Eagle Recess, previously known as the Eagle Tavern as was the fashion of that time. This recess changed hands between several familiar names from the above post, i. e. Kellogg & Smith and Osmer Hulbert.

The above Daily Democrat article from 1840 describes Chester Kellogg and Thomas Smith’s sale of the Eagle Recess to Osmer Hulbert.

EAGLE RECESS–The subscriber takes this method of informing the public they have taken the Recess formerly occupied by Smith & Kellogg, under the Eagle, which they have enlarged and fixed up in the most commodious style, and no pains will be spared to render this establishment worthy of patronage.
Fresh Oysters, Pastry, Hot Coffee, Roast Beef, Wild Game, Chicken, Turkeys, Fish, Tripe, Tongue, &c. &c. suited to every palate, constantly on hand, and prepared at the shortest notice. Also, most kinds of Fresh Fruits, in their season. Call and see.
FRESH OYSTERS received daily.
O. HULBURT

By 1849, the Eagle Recess was under the proprietorship of J. B. Damon, previously introduced as the proprietor of the Alhambra Recess.

The Eagle Recess sold Jacob P. Auger‘s “J. Auger Brand” oysters and “J. & T. Granniss Brand” from New Haven, Connecticut.

The Eagle Recess was the city’s only seller of Amboy Oysters, which were planted by Hobert Freeman in the mouth of the Raritan River at Perth Amboy, New Jersey.

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Canal Dock Recess

A recess for which I could not find a name operated at a canal dock near exchange street, proprietor Elme Bastedo.

Oddly, Bastedo’s occupation was listed as “laborer” in the 1845 and 1849 directories, bookending the year 1847, so he seems to have held this job for only between one and three years.

As for which canal dock we’re discussing, I’m not sure. Canal docks are not plainly marked on any maps of the era, but I estimate it’s somewhere near the crossing of the Exchange Street bridge over the canal; otherwise, how else could a canal dock be “near Exchange”? That’s still fairly vague, though.

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Recess Over

Back to class! Ha! Ha! Ha!

Anyhow, the age of recesses passed into the age of saloons and oyster houses. Although they were largely all the same business model under different names, there seemed to be a generality to the goods served at the recesses, while later eateries tended towards specialization. While the oyster houses focused on oysters and the saloons on drinks and bar foods, the recess was a place to go where you could get anything delicious and have a respite from the dusty streets outside. While that may have included oysters or drinks, so too it included game meats, roast beef and chicken, and anything the proprietor may have on hand.

The old recesses launched many of the big names in Rochester’s 19th century dining scene. Well-regarded restauranteurs such as Erastus M. Denio, Samuel C. Worden, and Osmer Hulbert got their start in these basement eateries of grand old buildings and would continue to operate prominent establishments on Rochester’s main business streets for decades afterwards.

Samuel C. Worden would go on to operate a well-known series of dining rooms along Main Street.

Samuel C. Worden lived at No. 773 East Main Street, formerly No. 673, southeast corner at Alexander Street until the time of his death on January 14, 1895.

The Worden house at No. 773 East Main Street was destroyed in a massive fire on July 18th, 2022.

Currently an ice cream shop is being constructed on the lot.

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So Long, Saloons!

That’s about all I could find at present pertaining to these recesses of olden Rochester. I’m inordinately intrigued by these eateries of a century-and-a-half ago, and the atmosphere they represented. There’s a dearth of evidence of business interiors from this early period, for obvious reasons, forcing me to imagine the milieu.

Obviously the recesses of the major downtown buildings were of high quality, attempting to present a welcoming atmosphere for the traveler through the business section. Descriptions given in advertisements lovingly describe elegant hardwood décor and brass fixtures, with renovations happening regularly. The air would have been hazy with cigar smoke, as cigars were one of the many comforts sold by the recesses; spittoons or cuspidors, too would dot the floor of the establishment, as men were apt to chew and spit tobacco. Through all this, the smell of the roasting meats and the warm wood-smoke from the hearths would have made for an atmosphere both heady and overstimulating, especially when one considers the din of men conversing and waxing inebriated.

I say “men” as these establishments were, as a social rule, predominantly catering to male clientele, with many people frowning upon “unchaperoned” women patronizing them. Operators of saloons and dining rooms would often have another establishment, either attached or elsewhere, that catered to the business of ladies. Samuel C. Worden operated a popular Ladies’ Dining Rooms on East Main Street. As many women of the era were involved in temperance, ice cream saloons were also an alternative that gained popularity through the 19th century and beyond.

And so as the era of recesses gave way to the era of saloons and oyster houses, which gave way to the era of restaurants and on to the fast food era and, idk, DoorDash or some shit? Despite all the change, one thing remains the same: Rochester is full of great little niches to get a bite to eat. Check ’em out now, because someday–sooner than you’d maybe like–they too will be history.

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