The City Mills

Even the gaps have history.

Meandering among the crumbling stone and brick edifices of Rochester’s old industrial heart, it can be easy to forget that what we see is but a tiny sampling of the rambling mills and smoke-puffing factories that once crammed these riverside lots with bustling productivity. For every stone façade still standing, there are multiple modern streets and paved parking lots that are etched with the ghosts of past activity. Where one walks may have been once the board-walk over a mill-race, which in turn was once swiftly flowing open water. Where one parks their car may have been the site of a foundational industry in Rochester’s infancy.

What reason would we have to know, or even care? Unless some curiosity or personal connection draws us to examine more closely the past of some empty lot, why bother? The lot is more relevant to our lives today than some mill, is it not? But the mill was the quickening spark that set the heart of this city beating. Its relevancy–in a way–is paramount, and as long-lived as the city itself.

1838
Illustration of the City Mills
https://www.google.com/books/edition/Settlement_in_the_West/ASsVAAAAYAAJ?hl=en&gbpv=0

The City Mills, above, was originally constructed in 1831 by miller Erasmus D. Smith. It faced Child’s Basin, a brief extension of the Erie Canal used for the loading and offloading of goods. It was built upon the former site of the mill once erected by Ebenezer Allan, the checkered character who helped found our fair city. But by this time, Allan’s mill was nearly two decades gone, washed into oblivion in 1808 by freshets. This new mill was of sturdy stone, and–clearly–built to persevere.

1832 Map of Rochester
Site of the City Mills
http://photo.libraryweb.org/rochimag/rpm/rpm00/rpm00022.jpg
1851 Plan of Rochester
Site of the City Mills

http://photo.libraryweb.org/rochimag/rpm/rpm00/rpm00447.jpg
Wednesday, August 01, 1894
https://www.newspapers.com/article/democrat-and-chronicle-chapin-to-gallagh/131918913/

From Erasmus Smith, the City Mills would transfer ownership to General E. S. Beach, who had previously constructed the 6-storey, 16-stone run Aqueduct Mill. From Beach, the mill went to Louis Chapin until 1866, when George W. Galliger [in this article spelled “George N. Gallagher”, but from other sources his name was George Washington Galliger] purchased the building.

Monday, September 20, 1875
https://www.newspapers.com/article/democrat-and-chronicle-george-w-gallige/131840252/
1875 Plat Map
http://photo.libraryweb.org/rochimag/rpm/rpm00/rpm00126.jpg

A map bearing the City Mills of G. W. Galliger can be seen above; it is facing Child’s Basin to the north with its rear on Aqueduct Street to the south.

With G. W. Galliger’s purchase of the mill, the building was entirely refitted for the purposes of wood turning, sawing, and framing. Numerous small woodworking industries would operate out of the premises for several decades thereafter.

1886-1887
https://catalogplus.libraryweb.org/?section=resource&resourceid=1115998879

The view above is down Aqueduct Street from East Main Street; the third building in should be the City Mills’ Aqueduct street face, but given the angle the City Mills is obscured behind the buildings between Race and Basin Streets due to its setback from Aqueduct; we may in fact be seeing the former Arcade Mills to the south of it.

Also visible poking in at the left side of the frame is one of the iron-fronted buildings on East Main Street.

1888 Plat Map
http://photo.libraryweb.org/rochimag/rpm/rpm00/rpm00243.jpg

At this point, the City Mills building belonged to preeminent local builder Nehemiah Osburn, owner of the Osburn House, whose own home stood prominently at the corner of East Avenue, East Main Street, and Elm Street.


Arcade Mills Fire

In 1899, fire erupted in the Arcade Mills of Mr. Charles Chase. The fire was intense–so intense that a bolt which anchored the mill’s walls to its neighboring building to the south (the Disbrow Box Manufactory) became superheated by the blaze, causing a smolder long after the initial fire was extinguished which caught the Disbrow box factory on fire the following day.

Sunday, September 17, 1899
https://www.newspapers.com/article/democrat-and-chronicle-galliger-bldg/131843683/

The Democrat & Chronicle building between Graves Street and the river made for an excellent vantage point from which to photograph the fire.

The top of the Galliger Building facing Graves Street, as seen from the roof of the Democrat & Chronicle building.
The first three floors of the Galliger Building facing Graves Street, as seen from the fire escape of the Democrat & Chronicle building.
Sunday, September 17, 1899
https://www.newspapers.com/article/democrat-and-chronicle-galliger-bldg/131843683/

As noted above, the occupants of the Galliger Building to the north of the conflagration were spared from its destructive effects. One of these occupants is of especial interest to me, as he was my great great grandfather, Charles Robert Zeiner. [That would be the one listed above as J. Zeiner, for some reason.]


Charles R. Zeiner & Charles E. Schulze

Born in Germany in 1853, Charles Robert Zeiner emigrated to the United States at the age of 15 in 1862.

Charles R. Zeiner worked as a cabinet maker at the furniture factory of Copeland, Hall & Co. near the Jay Street canal bridge. He worked with Charles Edward Schulze, another German immigrant. In 1873 Zeiner married Shulze’s sister, Emilie Schulze, making her my great-great-grandmother.

1874 Directory
https://www.libraryweb.org/rochcitydir/images/1874/1874t-z.pdf
1902
Jay Street looking northeast towards canal bridge.
Copeland, Hall & Co. is at left.

https://catalogplus.libraryweb.org/?section=resource&resourceid=1116099468

In 1874, Charles R. Zeiner went into business with Charles E. Schulze, making cigar boxes.

At this time Charles R. was living at an apartment, 204 North Street, in a building owned by a grocer named Leonard Ferner:

At the time of the 1875 atlas, Charles E. Schulze was boarding at No. 278 North Street with his parents, Frederick T. and Henrietta Schulze. Also an eventual inhabitant of No. 278 North Street was Charles’ brother Guenther H. Schulze, who would come to work at the cigar box factory as well.

1888 Plat Map
Red: Home of F.T. & Henrietta Schulze at No. 278/646 North Street, foot of Mark Street.
http://photo.libraryweb.org/rochimag/rpm/rpm00/rpm00257.jpg
1874 Directory
https://www.libraryweb.org/rochcitydir/images/1874/1874r-s.pdf

By 2007, the address had changed from 278 to 646 and, finally, 846. It was razed 2008 after major fires in 2005 and 2007.

Google Maps 2007
No. 846 North Street, former home of Charles E. Schulze’s family, razed 2008.

https://maps.app.goo.gl/gSU8mUEvxZoe5Hfk8
1875 Atlas
The furniture factory of Copeland, Hall & Co. near the Jay Street canal bridge.
http://photo.libraryweb.org/rochimag/rpm/rpm00/rpm00147.jpg

As of the 1876 directory, both Charleses would be listed as having an occupation in “cigar boxes” at 3 Aqueduct Street. This, of course, was the City Mills building to which we have already been introduced.

1876 Directory
libraryweb.org/rochcitydir/images/1876/1876t-z.pdf

At this time, Charles R. Zeiner lived at 24 Mark Street:

1875 Atlas
http://photo.libraryweb.org/rochimag/rpm/rpm00/rpm00151.jpg
1876 Directory
https://www.libraryweb.org/rochcitydir/images/1876/1876r-s.pdf
1884 Directory
https://www.google.com/books/edition/The_Rochester_Directory/QWEDAAAAYAAJ?hl=en&gbpv=0

The first time Schulze & Zeiner appeared in the business directory under “Cigar boxes & Cigar-Making Supplies” was in the 1884 directory, above.

1892 Sanborn Map
Red: No. 3 Aqueduct Street.
https://www.loc.gov/resource/g3804rm.g3804rm_g06217189202/?sp=7&r=0.09,0.234,0.556,0.313,0

3 Aqueduct street as of 1892: note the “Cigar Box Fac” in the building marked 3. This would have been the cigar box manufactory of Charles R. Zeiner and Charles E. Shulze.

Comparative image between 1892 Sanborn map and today.
Saturday, March 27, 1886
https://www.newspapers.com/article/democrat-and-chronicle-lost-parcel-of-ci/114143599/

The above classified ad implores the finder to return a lost parcel of cigar ribbons, for the local cigar manufacturer Charles F. Gottschalk at No. 189 Hudson.

1886 City Directory
https://www.libraryweb.org/rochcitydir/images/1886/1886e-g.pdf
Tuesday, June 15, 1886
https://www.newspapers.com/article/114144499/schulze-zeiners-seabreeze-picnic/
Tuesday, February 08, 1887
https://www.newspapers.com/article/114148642/notice-of-charles-e-schulzes-passing/

Tragically, Charles E. Schulze would die on the 6th of February, 1887 at the age of 30. His employees write their sympathies in the above clipping, including George H. Young, Schulze’s brother-in-law. He left his wife, Catherine, and one son, Oscar. His widow would go on to live to 90 years old, dying in 1948.

The grave of Charles E. Schulze.
https://www.findagrave.com/memorial/41360568/charles-edward-schulze
1887 Directory
https://www.libraryweb.org/rochcitydir/images/1887/1887r-s.pdf

By this point, Charles R. Zeiner lived at No. 40 Mark Street:

1888 Plat Map
Home of Charles R. Zeiner at No. 40 Mark Street, marked “R. C. Ziener” because of course it is.
http://photo.libraryweb.org/rochimag/rpm/rpm00/rpm00257.jpg

Charles’ neighbor to the east No. 42 Mark was W. H. Dutcher, a painter; in 1889, Dutcher moved to Copeland Street. Charles R. purchased Dutcher’s former home and moved his family into it, letting No. 40 out to various boarders and family members at various times; to a carpenter named Daniel DeLelys, his son-in-law optician Gustave W. Hoppe, and his sons Charles F. D. Zeiner and William A. Zeiner.

Google Maps
Nos. 40 & 42 Mark Street as they appear today.
Friday, July 08, 1887
https://www.newspapers.com/article/114131782/baseball-game-between-zeiners-and/

Far from the only box factory in town, or even on Aqueduct Street, the Charles R. Zeiner crew had a healthy baseball rivalry with fellow boxcrafters, Sauer & Deer.

1873 City Directory
https://www.google.com/books/edition/The_Rochester_Directory/Y18DAAAAYAAJ
1900 Plat Map
http://photo.libraryweb.org/rochimag/rpm/rpm00/rpm00164.jpg
1903
https://archive.org/details/cu31924030327989/page/84/mode/2up

C. R. Zeiner & Sons

1907
https://www.google.com/books/edition/Barrel_and_Box_and_Packages/8SNaAAAAYAAJ?hl=en&gbpv=0 (p.43)

Charles R. Zeiner had three sons who took part in the cigar box company alongside him; my great-grandfather William Anthony, Charles Friedrich David, and David Anthony. in 1907 they would be taken into partnership with Charles R. to become styled as Charles R. Zeiner & Sons.

Family Records
Charles F. D. Zeiner
Family Records
William A. Zeiner and his wife, Jennie Witty.
1909 City Directory
https://www.libraryweb.org/rochcitydir/images/1909/1909u-z.pdf

In 1909, the addresses changed on Aqueduct Street: No. 3 Aqueduct became No. 26 Aqueduct.

1910 Plat Map
http://photo.libraryweb.org/rochimag/rpm/rpm00/rpm00164.jpg
c.1910
A view north along Aqueduct Street towards East Main Street.
https://catalogplus.libraryweb.org/?section=resource&resourceid=1116169755

This view seems to be from immediately west of No. 26 Aqueduct, given the building’s setback from Aqueduct Street. One can see the wall of the Central Trust Building at No. 25 East Main Street to the far left.

An image comparing 1910 [bottom] to a photo taken by me on September 19th, 2023, approximate view.
About a foot or so off.
Sorry!
1912 Sanborn Map
The City Mills building, belonging to Rochester Railway & Light Co.

https://www.loc.gov/resource/g3804rm.g3804rm_g06217191204/?sp=6&r=0.112,0.185,0.457,0.257,0
Tuesday, January 12, 1915
https://www.newspapers.com/article/114138077/obituary-for-charles-r-zeiner/

Charles R. Zeiner passed away in 1915.

Grave of Charles Robert Zeiner and wife, Emilie.
https://www.findagrave.com/memorial/218721866/charles-carl_robert-zeiner

After this, Charles’ sons are listed in directories as boxmakers, without an occupational address. The relationship between the Zeiner family and the City Mills building seems to have come to a close with my great great grandfather’s death.


Into the 20th Century

1918 Plat Map
http://photo.libraryweb.org/rochimag/rpm/rpm00/rpm00339.jpg
1918
“In 1918, this building, at 22 Aqueduct Street, still stood on the site of Ebenezer Allan’s first mill. On the northwest corner of the building, visible in this picture, was a copper tablet reading, ‘Here in 1789 Ebenezer Allan built the first mill at the Falls of the Genesee. Rochester Centennial, 1912.’ The building pictured was later demolished.”
http://photo.libraryweb.org/rochimag/rmsc/scm08/scm08573.jpg

Ebenezer Allan Plaque

Thursday, August 28, 1919
https://www.newspapers.com/article/democrat-and-chronicle-osburn-mill/131869026/

While the walls stood, a plaque commemorating the Ebenezer Allan mills was affixed to the corner of the City Mills building at Aqueduct and Race streets. After the walls were finally completely razed, the plaque was meant to return to the corner of whatever building replaced it. Unfortunately, none ever would.

1914
A photo of a plaque marking the site where Ebenezer Allan’s mill stood. This plaque was placed by the Rochester Historical Society on the building known as the Old Chapin Flour Mill on Aqueduct Street at the corner of Race Street.
https://catalogplus.libraryweb.org/?section=resource&resourceid=1116552930
Sunday, July 25, 1943
https://www.newspapers.com/article/democrat-and-chronicle-allens-mill-plaq/159822647/
1950
“A historical marker on Graves Street commemorating the mill of Ebenezer Allan. The marker reads “Here in 1789 Ebeneser (usually spelled Ebenezer) Allan built the first mill at the falls of the Genesee.” This bronze memorial tablet was originally set on Aqueduct Street by the city of Rochester in 1912 for the centennial celebration. It was moved to Graves Street in 1931 by the Rochester Historical Society. Ebenezer ‘Indian’ Allan’s saw and grist mill were located on the west bank of the Genesee River, south of Main Street and east of Exchange Street. The mills were only in use for a few years.”
https://catalogplus.libraryweb.org/?section=resource&resourceid=1116719288
Monday, July 25, 1955
https://www.newspapers.com/article/democrat-and-chronicle-ebenezer-plaque-g/132087142/
Sunday, June 07, 1959
https://www.newspapers.com/article/democrat-and-chronicle-tablet-stolen/132103412/

It seems the plaque, like so many things, also disappeared, taken by some vandal in 1959.


A Lot Happens

1926 Plat Map
http://photo.libraryweb.org/rochimag/rpm/rpm00/rpm00076.jpg

As of the 1926 plat, little is left of the mill but its crumbling stone walls. The roof has been removed “many years” as of the below 1928 article; soon, it would be torn down entirely to serve as automobile parking.

1927
Aerial of Mill Lots, Broad Street Bridge.
https://catalogplus.libraryweb.org/?section=resource&resourceid=1115903924
Friday, May 25, 1928
https://www.newspapers.com/article/democrat-and-chronicle-old-mill-site-par/131858597/
1935 Plat Map
http://photo.libraryweb.org/rochimag/rpm/rpm00/rpm00076.jpg
1950 Sanborn Map
The parking lot at the former City Mills site.

https://www.loc.gov/resource/g3804rm.g3804rm_g06217195001S/?sp=6&r=0.028,0.195,0.672,0.378,0
Saturday, May 21, 1960
https://www.newspapers.com/article/democrat-and-chronicle-wall-on-first-mil/132102497/
A comparative image of the site of 3/26 Aqueduct Street, 1918 vs. today.

By 1935 the mill is entirely razed, leveled, and paved over, becoming the ancestral parking lot of the parking lot we know and love today:

Google Maps
The parking lot now present at the former City Mills site.

Look at this awe-inspiring beauty.


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3 responses to “The City Mills”

  1. I love your first two paragraphs!

  2. […] 54/84 Frank Street was the home of Patrick J. McCracken, a miller at the Chase Flour Mill which was mentioned in a previous post. The McCrackens would continue to dwell in the house as of the 1888 plat map, which leads me to […]

  3. […] Mathias Dossenbach was not the only working man to board at the residence. Also boarding at No. 4 York Street was Henry Blust, a shoemaker at No. 111 Jay Street, and William Vohs, a plater at No. 3 Canal Street. […]

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